Learning how to design and draft my own sewing patterns from a basic block
June 21, 2026
My first efforts to draft a woven t-shirt were a complete fail as I am still figuring out ease and need to do the skirt block for stuff that goes past my actual waist (whoops)
I spent a night fixated on a couple of options for purchased pattern or if I should give it another go. The next morning, the first pattern that came up was a free (!!!) one by Seamwork called the York and it's just about perfect: bias bound neckline with back tie, set in sleeve, bust dart and slight side and back shaping. I printed it and got it made in an afternoon and quite like it. I also drafted a tulip sleeve instead of the (somewhat matronly) 3/4 length that the pattern comes with and I am quite proud of it. It's way more basic than most stuff I make, but it's going to be a great canvas for some applique.
June 17, 2026
After binging The Closet Historian videos, I got inspired to make my own bodice and skirt blocks instead of having to endlessly hunt for patterns. I have a hard time finding the kind of hourglassy, fitted designs I like in modern clothing and have specific sensory and breastfeeding/pregnancy friendly design elements that are hard to find vintage. So. I got myself a package of Butteric B6849, traced it out, and got to work fitting it.
The first fitting had two pretty obvious fit issues. I needed to lower the waist by about an inch (easy peasy) and take in about a quarter inch on the waistline darts in both the front and the back. I messed around with the shoulder before remembering that I needed to leave seam allowance.
Version 2 looked a lot better! Other than reverting the shoulder back to how it was, I was pretty happy with the fit. I'll sew up version 3 (which just reverted the shoulder back to how it was) instead of just pinning it, then check for fit and probably call it good. Next up is the skirt block, which I think will be very simple, though I suspect I'll need more dartage than the pattern calls for again.
